Yom Kippur in Avignon, France (Oct. 2)

On our last full day in Provence, we went to the city of Avignon about 30 minutes away because we heard there might be a synagogue there. And sure enough, we found the synagogue which is one of the only two remaining synagogues still in use in Provence. They allowed us to enter after checking our IDs and loaning me a kipot. The synagogue was orthodox (although they didn't understand the word since they only worship the traditional way with no knowledge of Conservative or Reform). It was built in the 1500s. The building is not very impressive from the outside, but the inside worship area is still beautiful. Marcia went upstairs where the women and children sat and I peered into the round area where about 100 men were praying. The rabbi, cantor and elder were in the middle on a slightly raised platform. All of the men wore tallit but there were no extras, so I could only stand at the door and watch and listen. Everyone kissed the massuza on the doorpost as they entered and left. It was wonderful, spiritual and I am sure it was the same service held over 300 years ago. I could see my grandfather (Zaddie) standing in there as if he were.


After leaving the synagogue, we visited what Avignon is most famous for... the Palace of the Popes. From the early 1400s to the early 1500s, a group of breakaway popes left Rome and stayed in Avignon where they built the palace/fortress. It was quite a juxtaposition from the synagogue. Eventhough the popes palace was huge, the synagogue had much more meaning for us. And to be able to attend a service for a short time on Yom Kippur was very special for us.

It wasn't easy fasting in Provence, but we enjoyed breaking the fast with sweets when we returned to our town.